This article will give an overview how to change rear brakes on a typical 203 chassis style car. Parts may differ depending on car especially on cars with sports package. There a few different parts for the C-class so it is always a good idea to make sure you are getting the right parts by checking your VIN number.
Make sure you have all the tool and parts you need:
Secure the car with jack stands and remove the front wheels. This job can get dirty so it is recommended to wear gloves and some work clothes.
Now is a good time to clean the new rotors and spray the pads with anti-squeak. We have had best luck by using Castle anti-squeak and spraying one thick layer and letting it soak. Grease can also be applied now to all contacting parts. Try to use only Mercedes-Benz parts or OEM parts. Aftermarket parts have are known to squeak and make noise. Important: If your pads are very low or you are doing front and back, check the level of your brake fluid! If you have had to add fluid in the past you will have to suck some out now. Squeezing in the caliper pistons will push out brake fluid from the reservoir if the reservoir is full!
Check the level make sure it is not too full, or fluid will come out and you will have a mess!!
Use only Mercedes-Benz approved fluid.
Cleaning oil off new rotors
Grease applied to contact points don't forget the ears.
Mercedes-Benz brake grease part number 001 989 47 51
Loosen the rotor screw with a T30 Torx bit.
Knock out the brake pad clip retaining pin with a punch or other similar tool. Remove the pin it may be a little stuck. Remove the clip as well and put it to the side.
Knocking out pin.
Removing pin and clip
Now it is time to compress the calipers. You can use two large screwdrivers in a crossing pattern to do this. Make sure the piston is all the way in so the new pads will fit. The old brake pads can be removed now. If it has a sensor note the position of it.
Remove brake pads.
Cleaning dust and dirt from caliper with small wire brush.
Clean the caliper where it contacts the brake pads with a small wire brush. Solvent can be used for easier cleaning. This will be as far as you go if you are only changing pads. You can jump to step 11 to finish replacing pads.
Loosening caliper bolts.
Time to remove the caliper. The bolts are a little awkward to get to. You can secure the caliper by placing it on the axle behind the backing plate.
Time to remove the rotor: The hub should also be cleaned with a wire brush at this time too. This can help prevent brake noise.
Rotor ready for removal
Time to install new rotor and tighten rotor torx screw.
Install the 2 large caliper retaining bolts and tighten them to 115 Nm (85 Ft. lbs)
Install new brake pads. If the caliper piston as been completely compressed the pads should easily slide in. If there is a brake pad sensor replace it now.
Install brake pad clip and pin. The pin will have to be hammered in the last inch or so.
Installing pin. Make sure it is secure and all the way in.
Now it will have to be repeated for the other side.
Install wheels and torque to 95 Ft. lbs.
Time to brake in the car. Before starting the car push the brake pedal all the way down a couple of times. It is recommended you brake in the car in a place with no other traffic. Bring the car up to about 35mph and hit brakes and come to a complete stop. Repeat this 3 or 4 more times. This will seat the brakes correctly. Now you have new brakes that wont make any noise for a while! This is only a guide. If you do not have the tools or do not feel comfortable doing this type of work have a professional do it for you!!!
C class brakes 203 series.
This article will give an overview how to change front brakes on a typical 203 chassis style car. Parts may differ depending on car especially on cars with sports package. There a few different parts for the C-class so it is always a good idea to make sure you are getting the right parts by checking your VIN number.
For this repair you will need the following items:
Remove rotor screw.
Loosen the torx screw on the rotor. Tip: to keep the rotor from spinning use a screwdriver to lock the rotor by putting it in a rotor vent hole.
Using the large screwdriver loosen the pads. Note the position of the brake pad sensor. It will be installed the same way on the new pads. Depending on your car you may have only one sensor or one on each side.
These pads are very low note brake sensor position.
Remove the 2 caliper bolts by using a 12mm wrench or socket. The caliper can now be moved to the side. The pads can now be removed as well.
Removing 12mm bolts
Pads ready for removal.
Using a caliper compressing tool or a large pair of pliers compress the piston all the way in. This will be as far as you need to go if you are only changing pads.
Screwing in piston
Piston all the way in.
Remove the 2 large caliper bracket bolts and remove the bracket using an 18mm socket.
Using the wire brush clean the bracket in the places where it contacts the brake pads. Clean the hub as well. This helps prevent brake noise. If your brake pads came with brake pad clips remove the old ones and install the new ones now.
Cleaning the hub
Cleaning caliper bracket. Spraying some solvent on it first will help.
Removing old clips with screwdriver
Installing pad clips
Correctly installed clips
Remove the rotor. It may be stuck rather hard and you might have to hit it with a hammer, preferably a plastic or lead hammer. Tip: To prevent the rotor from flying off insert one of the lug bolts.
Install new rotor and tighten the rotor bolt with T30 torx bit.
Install the caliper mounting bracket with the large bolts to 115 Nm (85 Ft. lbs.) using your torque wrench.
Tightening large bolts to 115 Nm
Bracket installed with new clips.
Install the new brake pads. Make sure they have grease on the parts that touch the clips and caliper. If it has a sensor install that too.Pads installed. Note position of caliper to prevent stressing brake hose.
Install the caliper.
Tightening 2 smaller 12mm bolts.
Brakes installed. Wheel ready to be put on.
Now it will have to be repeated for the other side.
Install wheels and torque to 95 Ft. lbs.
Time to brake in the car. Before starting the car push the brake pedal all the way down a couple of times. It is recommended you brake in the car in a place with no other traffic. Bring the car up to about 35mph and hit brakes and come to a complete stop. Repeat this 3 or 4 more times. This will seat the brakes correctly. Mow you have new brakes that wont make any noise for a while! This is only a guide. If you do not have the tools or do not feel comfortable doing this type of work have a professional do it for you!!!
Applies to most vehicles with 6 and 8 cylinders and some 4 cylinder 1998 on
This article will show you step by step how to change the oil most Mercedes Benz vehicles 1998 onwards some exceptions would be some 4 cylinder cars. You may not be able to correctly measure oil level if you have a C class car since these do not have a dipstick from 2000-2005. These cars will need a Mercedes Benz DAS tester to accurately measure oil level.
Make sure you have all the tools you need. You will need the following tools and materials:
A driver or ratchet with an 8mm socket for the plastic cover under the car.
A 13mm wrench or ratchet/socket for the drain plug.
A 3/8 ratchet for the oil filter housing cap assembly.
A medium extension for removing the oil filter housing cap.
An oil filter socket to remove the oil filter housing cap.
A pick or small screwdriver to remove the o-rings from the oil filter housing cap.
Depending on your car 7-9 quarts of synthetic motor oil (Mercedes Benz recommends Mobil1 0w40 which is a very good oil).
A high quality fleece oil filter make sure this is not paper. Paper filters can break apart. Use an original Mercedes Benz filter or any OEM like Mann or Hengst, they are all fleece.
Crush washer for oil drain plug
A couple of rags in case of spillage for cleanup.
Container to drain oil into.
Container to put used oil filter in.
Drive your car until your engine comes up to normal operating temperature. This is important because then more oil can be drained and it will drain faster.
Make sure the car is secure by putting it in park and the parking brake on if you are going to be using a jack.
Open the hood. When standing in front of your car it is located on the right side of the engine. Open the oil filler cap located on the valve cover as well.
Unscrew the oil filter housing cap using a ratchet with an extension connected to the oil filter cap tool.
Do not remove it quite yet we will do that later, this will allow oil to drain out of the old oil filter.
Now you will have to go underneath your car. If you are using a jack make sure your car is secured by jack stands as well.
The plastic plate(s) under the car covering the oil pan is secured by 4-10 screws depending on your car.
Remove it and put it to the side.
Time to drain the oil.
With your 13mm wrench or ratchet you can now remove the drain plug.Be careful the oil will be extremely hot! If you have an ML on some models the oil drain plug is in front of some suspension components. I use a piece of cardboard usually from the carton of oil. Bend it in half so it looks like a V and wedge it so the oil pours onto the cardboard and then into the drain pan. This will save a lot of cleanup later.
Make sure the container you are draining into can hold at least 10 quarts (2.5 gallons).
While the oil is draining we can now remove the oil filter housing cap. When removing place a rag around the filter and place it into a container to catch any excess oil. Let the oil drain for a good 10-15 minutes and then replace the drain plug, crush washer if it is bad, and the plastic cover. You can let the oil drain while doing these next steps.
You can now remove the oil filter. You may have to twist the filter back and forth to remove it.
Time to remove the old o-rings.
Typical 6 and 8 cylinder.
You will need your pick (I like a 45 degree pick) or small screwdriver. Most vehicles have 4 o-rings on the oil filter housing cap assembly. These will have to be removed and replaced with the new ones that come with the new oil filter. Make sure the o-rings are correctly fitted inside their grooves and are not twisted. Make sure all the o-rings are removed and that you do not put a new o-ring on top of an old one. This can create a huge messy oil leak because it is high pressure!
Now it is time to put the new oil filter on the cap assembly. It will be a tight fit and a little force may be needed to get it seated all the way in the assembly.
OEM filter Mercedes part number 000 180 26 09 fits most 6 and 8 cylinder cars 98 and up.
The new oil filter will be marked with 2 lines.
The filter can be installed from either side, but one of the lines needs to be lined up with the bottom of the cap.
Filter is not all the way in.
Now it is ready to be installed.
The oil can be poured in now.
If you have not replaced the drain plug do so now. Don't forget to put the plastic cover back either. Oil can be filled into the oil filter housing and/or the oil filler hole in the valve cover. 7 - 7.5 quarts is usually a safe amount to fill for 6 and 8 cylinder engines.
The oil filter assembly can now be installed. The oil filler cap can now also be installed.
Start up the car now for about 15 seconds and turn it back off. This will fill the oil filter with oil and enable you to get an accurate oil level measurement. Let the oil settle for a couple minutes.
Pull out the dipstick, wipe it off and put it back in the tube. Pull it out again and check the oil level. If the oil level is good start up the car and let it warm up to operating temperature. It is very important to measure oil level at hot level because synthetic oil expands much more than conventional oil. Turn the car off and measure the oil level again.
The oil level when hot should not be above the maximum line. It is better to have too little oil than too much. A good level is about 3/4 full as pictured above.
That it! It may be a little more work than other cars but after a few times you will get the hang of it. You can save some time by installing the oil filter o-rings while oil is being poured into the car. Depending on how you drive it is recommended you change your oil every 5000-8000 miles. Lots of stop and go, city, or towing replace your oil more often. Lots of highway driving you can change oil less frequently. Remember this is only a guide. If you do not have the tools or do not feel comfortable doing this type of work have a professional do it for you!!!
Over time brake fluid absorbs water through the air and this will reduce the boiling point of the brake fluid. Under certain braking condition especially hard or emergency braking situations this reduced boiling point will allow vapor to be formed in the brake system. This vapor can reduce the braking efficiency of the vehicle.
Additionally contaminants can build up in the system over time and potentially damage expensive parts like ABS components and SBC systems.
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